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- Derma Score
- Substances of interest
Substances of interest
Sensitive ingredients
A label focused on concerning ingredients
These families of substances require special attention because they are responsible for many reactions or scientific and societal concerns.
The categories taken into account are:
-
Allergens & Sensitisers
-
Irritants
-
CMR substances
-
Endocrine disruptors (SVHC/AGEC)
Sensitizing substances
Allergens & sensitizers
Allergens are substances capable of triggering an undesirable immune reaction (allergy) in certain individuals, even at very low doses.
They cause an initial sensitization of the immune system, followed by a reaction upon later exposures.
The Derma Score label includes regulated allergens as well as emerging sensitizers identified by scientific research, for reinforced protection.
European regulation: mandatory allergen labeling above specific thresholds
0,01 %
For leave-on products
0,001 %
For rinse-off products
Irritating substances
Skin irritants
Skin irritants cause a local inflammatory reaction when they come into contact with the skin.
Unlike allergens, irritation does not involve the immune system: it is a direct reaction on skin cells.
Hormonal impact
Endocrine disruptors
Endocrine disruptors (EDs) are substances capable of interfering with the hormonal system, even at low doses, and thereby altering certain biological functions.
They may cause serious health effects, sometimes delayed or long-term:
- Developmental disorders
- Alterations of the reproductive system
- Increased risk of certain hormone-dependent cancers
Regulation:
In Europe, EDs are considered substances of very high concern (SVHC) under the REACH regulation.
Reference lists:
- The SVHC Candidate List published by ECHA
- The national AGEC list in France
The Derma Score label cross-checks both lists to apply a cautious approach, going beyond regulatory obligations.
CMR risks
CMR (Carcinogenic, Mutagenic, Reprotoxic)
The Derma Score label automatically excludes these substances from its highest scores and updates its framework according to new classifications.
CMR substances cover three hazard categories:
They are classified into three severity levels:
Carcinogens
Substances that can cause or promote cancer development.
Category 1A
Known human hazard (sufficient human evidence)
Mutagens
Substances capable of altering DNA and causing genetic mutations.
Category 1B
Presumed hazard (sufficient animal evidence)
Reprotoxic substances
Substances that may impair fertility or harm fetal development.
Category 2
Suspected hazard (limited evidence)
European regulation:
The cosmetics regulation strictly prohibits the use of substances classified as CMR in cosmetic products (Article 15 and Annex II).
Controls:
Authorities carry out regular checks to ensure compliance with this prohibition.
Emerging risks
Other substances
In addition to allergens, irritants, endocrine disruptors, and CMR substances, the Derma Score label allows toxicologists to issue remarks on other ingredients presenting potential risks.