Substances of interest

Dermascore – laboratoire

Sensitive ingredients

A label focused on concerning ingredients

These families of substances require special attention because they are responsible for many reactions or scientific and societal concerns.

The categories taken into account are:

  • dermascore_expertise_allergenes_2025

    Allergens & Sensitisers

  • dermascore_expertise_irritantes_2025

    Irritants

  • dermascore_expertise_cmr_2025

    CMR substances

  • dermascore_expertise_pe_2025

    Endocrine disruptors (SVHC/AGEC)

Sensitizing substances

Allergens & sensitizers

Allergens are substances capable of triggering an undesirable immune reaction (allergy) in certain individuals, even at very low doses.

They cause an initial sensitization of the immune system, followed by a reaction upon later exposures.

The Derma Score label includes regulated allergens as well as emerging sensitizers identified by scientific research, for reinforced protection.

European regulation: mandatory allergen labeling above specific thresholds

0,01 %

For leave-on products

0,001 %

For rinse-off products

Irritating substances

Skin irritants

Skin irritants cause a local inflammatory reaction when they come into contact with the skin.

Unlike allergens, irritation does not involve the immune system: it is a direct reaction on skin cells.

Dermascore – substances irritantes

Hormonal impact

Endocrine disruptors

Endocrine disruptors (EDs) are substances capable of interfering with the hormonal system, even at low doses, and thereby altering certain biological functions.

They may cause serious health effects, sometimes delayed or long-term:

  • Developmental disorders
  • Alterations of the reproductive system
  • Increased risk of certain hormone-dependent cancers

Regulation:

In Europe, EDs are considered substances of very high concern (SVHC) under the REACH regulation.

Reference lists:

  • The SVHC Candidate List published by ECHA
  • The national AGEC list in France

The Derma Score label cross-checks both lists to apply a cautious approach, going beyond regulatory obligations.

Dermascore – Perturbateurs endocriniens

CMR risks

CMR (Carcinogenic, Mutagenic, Reprotoxic)

The Derma Score label automatically excludes these substances from its highest scores and updates its framework according to new classifications.

CMR substances cover three hazard categories:
They are classified into three severity levels:
Carcinogens

Substances that can cause or promote cancer development.

Category 1A

Known human hazard (sufficient human evidence)

Mutagens

Substances capable of altering DNA and causing genetic mutations.

Category 1B

Presumed hazard (sufficient animal evidence)

Reprotoxic substances

Substances that may impair fertility or harm fetal development.

Category 2

Suspected hazard (limited evidence)

European regulation:

The cosmetics regulation strictly prohibits the use of substances classified as CMR in cosmetic products (Article 15 and Annex II).

Controls:

Authorities carry out regular checks to ensure compliance with this prohibition.

Emerging risks

Other substances

In addition to allergens, irritants, endocrine disruptors, and CMR substances, the Derma Score label allows toxicologists to issue remarks on other ingredients presenting potential risks.

This may concern substances that are still little-studied, under scientific evaluation, or whose use raises emerging concerns.

This vigilance allows the Derma Score label to anticipate regulatory developments and strengthen precaution for the benefit of consumers.

Dermascore – woman face