Collaboration
with the independent consulting firm CEHTRA (toxicology, ecotoxicology, and regulatory affairs)
Independent label
Derma Score is developed by Air Label SRL, an independent label internationally recognized for its Air Label Score (air-label.com), which has certified leading brands such as:
Our mission
To provide consumers with clear information and strengthen trust between brands and their customers.
Scientific expertise
Specialists in regulation, toxicology, environmental health, certification, cosmetics.
Objective: build a neutral, rigorous and scientifically grounded framework.
Expert management
Led by Air Label SRL, an independent company bringing together experts in regulatory affairs and corporate social responsibility (CSR).
More than 10 years of experience in environmental health.
Scientific collaboration
with the independent consulting firm CEHTRA (toxicology, ecotoxicology, and regulatory affairs)
with Clarisse Bavoux, expert toxicologist at CEHTRA, PhD, ERT (formerly INRS, ANSES, ANSM)
of critical thresholds (NOAEL, SED, MoS), identification of risk substances.
Active collaboration
Result: a credible, holistic and robust framework capable of meeting the expectations of consumers and brands.
with recognised laboratories and toxicology offices to compare international practices
with the cosmetics, detergence and early childhood industries
from regulatory specialists when required, to ensure compliance of the framework.
Guaranteed neutrality
Independence from any interest group is essential to guarantee objectivity and credibility.
The Derma Score label ensures full independence at every level:
The label is free from external influence or private interest pressure.
Assessments are carried out by independent professionals with no connection to certified companies.
This neutrality reinforces trust for both consumers and brands.
Compliance
In a European regulatory context that is toughening against greenwashing (Green Claims Directive, Directive (EU) 2024/825), Derma Score stands as a rigorous trusted third party. We are not a self-declared marketing claim, but an independent rating system whose architecture respects the strictest requirements for transparency and objectivity.
Here is why Derma Score is a pledge of safety and compliance:
Unlike simple scans of INCI lists, Derma Score relies on a documentary toxicological assessment performed by independent experts. We analyze the actual quantitative formula transmitted by the manufacturer (exact concentrations) to calculate Margins of Safety (MoS) and Systemic Exposure Doses (SED). This factual approach guarantees an A+ to C rating based on science, not on opinion.
In light of Directive (EU) 2024/825, Derma Score is structured to meet the requirements of a robust and transparent third-party verification system:
Public and transparent reference framework: Our system is based on an accessible framework detailing the methodology, evaluation criteria, and analysis scenarios.
Open and non-discriminatory process: The process is accessible to any operator wishing to have their products assessed against this framework.
Independence and competence: Assessments are conducted exclusively by independent third-party toxicologists, operating according to recognized standards (SCCS, CIR, IARC).
The Derma Score system integrates the control mechanisms required to guarantee the reliability of the label:
Expert consultation: The reference framework was developed in collaboration with scientific experts and toxicologists (CEHTRA firm).
Management of non-compliance: Strict procedures are defined (label validity, annual monitoring, withdrawal in the event of undeclared formula modification).
Total objectivity: Air Label SRL is not involved in the manufacturing of the evaluated products and delegates the analysis to third parties, ensuring the absence of conflicts of interest.
In accordance with Regulation (EU) 2023/988, Derma Score does not replace mandatory regulatory compliance. It is a voluntary approach that:
Does not merely attest to compliance with minimum legal thresholds.
Provides comparative scientific information going beyond obligations (e.g., taking into account cocktail effects and cumulative exposure).
Offers a quantitative rating (A+ to C) reflecting measured exposure levels, and not a simple binary validation.
Derma Score is issued by Air Label SRL, a structure totally independent from the manufacturers evaluated. Unlike greenwashing which blurs reality, our approach is clear: it is a rating of estimated skin tolerance. We do not promise “zero risk” (impossible in science), but a controlled level of exposure, validated by toxicologists based on realistic usage scenarios.
Procedure
Submission of the request and scheduling of evaluations depending on availability.
Comprehensive assessment by an independent toxicology office.
The evaluation covers the full formula and focuses on:
endocrine disruptors
irritants
allergens and sensitizers
CMR substances (carcinogenic, mutagenic, and reprotoxic)
The evaluation results are compared against more than 60 international standards, taking into account:
toxicological reference values (NOAEL);
expert opinions from recognised institutions such as SCCS, CIR, NICNAS, NTP, and IARC.
The product receives a clear rating from A+ to C, based on the identified risks.
A detailed report is provided, also highlighting substances that may become a concern in the future.
Every year:
• Score updates based on the latest scientific and regulatory developments.
• Random quality control checks on a sample of labelled products.
Consumer data
Derma Score is the benchmark independent label for cosmetics, baby care, and detergence. A clear, simple and easily understandable label for consumers.
According to several YouGov studies, the Derma Score label is perceived as the favourite label of French consumers, ahead of others such as Ecocert, Cosmos Organic, Cosmebio, Vegan, Nordic Swan, Cruelty Free.